Between Lava and Salt

The capers of Pantelleria.

Words and photos by Chloe Faure

Sitting in the middle of the Mediterranean sea, nestled between Sicily and Tunisia, is Pantelleria. Despite its location, no one seems to have heard of it. But ask anyone who loves capers and they’ll tell you all about this island, home to the best capers in the world.

As a true caper aficionado (I use them in everything, from pasta to salad, from bagels to roast potatoes), I had never stopped to think about where they come from, how they grow or are processed. Taking a flight from Trapani to Pantelleria was my chance to find out. Thankfully, La Nicchia, the island’s largest caper producer, invited me to visit their museum, processing plant and caper fields.